Larger Chainring

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Milton, we have used 53/16 and 53/14 ratios with a 5-bolt crankset, but with this crank you can go to an even larger chainring. The 5-bolt crankset that we used requires a 122 mm bottom bracket instead of the 113 mm that comes with the 48T chainring. You need to pay attention to the Q factor, which refers to how far the crank curves away from the frame (google "Q factor"). The crank arm has to line up precisely with the threads of the pedal spindle to prevent any binding during rotation of the strider ski.

If you decide to experiment, let us know the results!
Stride on!

Hi MiltonC,

Have you indeed experimented with a larger chainring?

I also have an EXT 8r. I live in central East Florida and cannot see using the lower 3 gears much, but I might like to extend the top end as well (with a helment on).

What have you found/tried?

To use a larger chainring you need new cranks/spider/bracket. It's at least a $200 mod. Dr. Dave posted a very nice video on changing the rear sprocket to a 14-tooth, which only costs about $20. You can buy the sprocket here:

http://www.nycewheels.com/brompton-sp...

You may also want to purchase some split-ring pliers:

http://www.kimcodistributing.com/stor...

I've had my new sprocket for several months now, but I haven't gotten around to installing it. I tried the last time I replaced the rear tire and chain, but I was thwarted by the split-ring (having neither split-ring pliers nor an ice pick).

MiltonC, What about somebody like me that has a 3R, can I upgrade my rear wheel and gear shifter and turn my 3R into a 8R?

Sal, I think you can upgrade to a Shimano Nexus 8R hub for $140-$200, but you would also need a new shifter. This would not give you any higher gears, but just the really low ones for climbing really steep grades.

My strider 2010 8r came with a 48T chain ring and 16T sprocket, so it is technically slower than the new 3rs with 48/13 ratios (new 8rs have been upgraded to 53/16). I do not know if the new 3r bottom brackets are 122mm or 113 mm (see Jeannette's post above). I do know that all the 53T chain rings on the market require 5-arm crank spiders (like those on the new 8rs).

The other difference between the 8r and the 3r--double-walled rims--seems to have been eliminated, as 3rs are shipping with those now. It is nice to see that SS is continuing to improve upon their products.

BTW, If you need more torque for start-up and hill climbing, I would suggest moving your feet back to the raised ends of your skis. This will give you the functionality of a much lower gear.

If you need more speed, bring your feet forward and focus on flexing your ankles while keeping the rest of your body as level as possible. Any side-to-side or up-and-down motion on a cruising strider is wasted energy. A strider should only be carving is it is on a steep grade.

Thanks MiltonC!

MiltonC,

I just took delivery on a 3r last week. The SS website still indicates that the 3r has single-walled rims. Any idea how I can check to see whether mine are single or double-walled?

Mine are single and I received it on 5/4/11

Larry, you can check the rim at the stem hole. A double-walled rim has two stem holes with an empty space in between. Here's a photo of a cross-section: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia...

The webstore lists single-walled rims, yet gives a weight capacity of 350 lbs. I doubt if single-walled rims can consistently take that much weight. If you are over 250 lbs, double-walls might be important. Overwise, single-walls are considerably lighter. Since a strider has three wheels, the spoke stress is low.

I think the main reason for the double rims was to meet the demands of Biggest Loser. I tandemed once with my girlfriend--our combined weight is 320 lbs--and my 8r still rode smoothly.

Larry, you can check the rims at the stem hole. A double-walled rim has two stem holes with an empty space in between. Here's a cross-section of a double rim:

I was incorrect. Mine are double walled.